Photos by Jack A. Waldron
Heading into the Levent. The Levent valley and its surrounding highlands are home to ancient paths that date back to periods before the Hittites recorded their first settlements here. These were the highways north and south into and out of the fertile crescent, reaching Syria, Egypt, and beyond. Though the Tohma River travels mainly east and west within its canyons (pictured above, deep in the valley), it empties into the Euphrates, which then takes us on a journey south through the heartland of Mesopotamia.
Though the mighty Tohma River begins its journey from the tiny village of Kindiralik, which is 80 kilometers west of the large Roman structure pictured above, what is important is that another 80 kilometers west of Kindiralik is the major ancient city of Caesarea (modern day Kayseri). Before it took the Romanized name Caesarea, it was known as Mazaca to the Greeks, and near is the settlement of Kultepe (an Assyrian colony), which was a major junction along the Silk Road trade routes for Assyrian merchants (pre-Hittite), and where texts in Old Assyrian have been found, which describe trade with ancient Assur. The point is, that the area and building (pictured above and below), which we are going to look at here, are situated along this major route.
The structure pictured here is a monumental Roman mausoleum that is located in Ozan village, the center of which is about 500 meters away, and occupies a slope up from the Tohma River and the fields pictured, which are vulnerable to flooding. Ozan belongs to the district of Darende, a larger town on the Tohma River 30 kilometers upstream, which is the site of ancient Taranda, or Darlanda. Though I didn't take the time to visit the ancient Hittite site located in Derende, there remain two large lion sculptures dating from that time not far from the village center. The Hittites recorded the first administering of Derenede, as written in cuneiform on tablets, however, it is likely that the location was inhabited since the time of Cafer Hoyuk and Arslantepe.
As I rode toward the village, ancient signs began to reveal the yet un-excavated history of Ozan. Particularly, the cemetery, because the places where humans are put to rest in small villages generally don't change location over the centuries, as growth doesn't demand it.
Here in the cemetery just outside of the village, Ottoman era graves with pseudo sarcophagi (pictured above and below) scattered amongst much older markers.
The decorations do change slightly over the centuries, as well as the functionality of the creations. The sword relief on the side of the headstone pictured above is curved, Persian-like, while the one on the face is straight, Roman-like. Also, notice the relief around the pseudo lid of the marker, Islamic, or Byzantine?
Some of these older markers, if that is actually what they are, as opposed to simply being much old blocks that have come to the surface over time, appear to date from Byzantine and Roman periods.
The Ottoman grave marker pictured below is very interesting to me. First, that two stone blocks were used to create the base of the marker, and second, the strange shape of the cap piece. This cap looks suspiciously like the base of Roman era wall, seat, etc., turned upside down.
As I roamed around the site I spotted the building member pictured below, just sitting off the main road at the edge of the village cemetery, probably Roman. On this entablature block I see a triglyph, and since it is located in the cemetery, I am going to assume that this is where the dead have been buried for many many centuries.
Based on my observations, I am going to assume that this area of the village is where the dead have been buried for many many centuries. And further, that there is a strong possibility that this is the ancient necropolis that was purposely located along the main road that leads into the ancient colony, settlement, or administrative center.
Climbing up the curvy narrow paths of Ozan are a challenge, and they mostly end up here, at the school (pictured above). I have little doubt that the whole community is sitting on top of the ancient settlement, as road leads here, it's well protected with its steepness, and for what it's worth, it still feels ancient.
The Tohma River, which on this day was in a torrent, is about 100 meters west of the ancient Roman mausoleum. As with the greater area, apricots are the most abundant fruit grown, and so, the mausoleum is surrounded by apricot trees.
The Ozan Mausoleum makes for a very odd site in the middle of this field. I am inclined to question whether there was another ancient road leading to the the ancient settlement, as we know the Romans usually lined the roads leading into their cities with the tombs of the wealthy families.
The weather on this day was quite changeable, as it usually is in the mountainous areas of eastern Turkey. One minute, stunning sunshine, the next, a torrential downpour. Ah, but the site of this magnificent monument poking its roof above the lavender, spectacular.
The Ozan Mausoleum stands two stories in height, has 12 x 3/4 pseudo (or, semi) columns in the Ionic order, as they are capped with scrolls, and 12 false windows decorated with garlands beneath each. The front center window has been open through the removal of the original block, probably to let sunlight enter the space.
Like many ancient monuments of such beauty, this mausoleum was converted into a church, perhaps the reason to let light strike the altar. Malatya (ancient Melitene), which is only 40 kilometers away (as the crow flies), was the sight of early conversions to Christianity.
The mausoleum is basically square, and measures a little less than 7 meters on each side, with the stylobate and the roof probably adding a bit to these dimensions. It is built of smoothly cut limestone, and presents a rare design for this area during ancient times.
As you can see from these photos, the front western facing facade has damage to the lower left of the wall and columns, and the entablature has also collapsed.
Based on dating of the decorative elements and mortar techniques, the the structure probably dates back to between the 1st century BCE and the 2nd century CE.
That the building has not been quarried for its limestone blocks during the past 2000 years truly makes this one of the more fortunate of ancient structures.
I would venture to suggest that this structure served many purposes over the centuries, making it more valuable intact, than in pieces.
We can deduce that the building served as a tomb, and probably as a religious structure, but it has also most likely served a place of refuge, either from the elements, or from attack.
The remoteness and limited population of Ozan would also indicate that the land has been handed down generation after generation, perhaps within the same family, thus, respect for the structure has remained strong?
As discussed in my post on ancient Melitene, which is located only 50 kilometers to the southwest of Ozan, the Roman 12th Legion of Lightening was deployed to the eastern boarder between 70-71 CE, as stated in Roman Notices of Honor.
As evidence has shown, Roman posts were located at various positions along the western bank of the Euphrates. Only 80 kilometers to the northeast of Ozan in the village of Onar, we find Roman rock cut tombs dating from the same time period.
The Roman 12th Legion of Lightening would recruit locals to serve, and these soldiers would often retire in the towns and districts where they grew up, and where their families still lived.
Roman Emperor Septimius Severus was a very present figure in and beyond Kapadovkia (Cappadocia) during his reign, and expanded the boarder east, creating more stability along the Euphrates. So, it is more likely that the Ozan Mausoleum was built during the rule of Severus.
As you can see from in the photos above and below, the foundation of the structure has been compromised.
There is a large pie of stones next to the tomb (pictured above and below), and they appear to be of the same type used for the foundation, though I can't say if they were brought here recently or not, in order to shore up the structure.
The stones positioned up to and under the foundation appear to have been intended to raise the structure above ground level, as well as giving it a firm fitting on the soft soil field.
Since the columns are not freestanding, and are secured by the blocks they are incorporated into, they have been partially supported.
However, some of the supporting wall blacks have fallen, thus in the case of the column pictured below, it is missing, and the corner of the structure is in danger of collapse.
You can see in the following photos, that the very finely fitted blocks at the corner are separating from the central structure. Notice the crack in the center of the garland benieth the window.
Restoration work is desparately needed on tomb, and I have found some information stating that the site will be excavated and work to save the structure is forthcoming.
I am hopeful that excavations will not be limited to the tomb site, but will also include the cemetery (possible ancient necropolis), and open areas of the village itself.
An interesting question with regard to the location of the Ozan Mausoleum is, was the structure located along a main road? As we know, the tombs of ancient cities are often/usually located on either side of the main access roads of the city. Was this the case with the Ozan Mausoleum?
The district in which Ozan sits is administered by Derende, which is in the province of Malatya (ancient Melitene). Derende, or ancient Daranda, or, Taranda, was a settlement of the Romans. Important here, is the location of the site with regard to Derende and Malatya.
Ozan, which is located at the near mid-point between the Derende and Malatya, would have served as an important way station, check point, goods collection point, safe harbor, and so on, for the busy traffic along this route.
Monuments such as the mausoleum at Ozan serve more than the purpose of interring the deceased. The Ozan Mausoleum establishes power, respect, attention to citizenry, wealth of a people, refinement, beauty, care, duty, obligations, and so on. It carries a message to those who view it, and if it lay along the main highway, then everyone views it.
After all, even today the Ozan Monument is a very odd spectacle in the middle of this sparsely populated and rather poor area. There is nothing around for many many kilometers, except Ozan village, which has no restaurant, not a shop (that I could see), yes a school building (if it's still being used), and so, what purpose could this ancient location have served?
Key to the point, is that this road/route was the main thoroughfare into and out of the Roman empire. Yes, there was Malatya, and Zeugma, and more entry points to the south, but most roads north led to and, came through the Tohma River Valley on their way to Ceasarea (Kayseri), then on to ancient Ankyra, and further west.
As you can see from the heavy soot left on the ceiling of the vaulted tomb, this structure has also served as a shelter, home, etc., and so, cooking and heating fires were used. The opened window (pictured above), was I believe blocked when the structure was built. However, in order to let in light, and to allow smoke to escape, it was chiseled open.
The damaged blocks from these internal fires will hopefully be cleaned and repaired during restoration. Pictured below, a mihrab niche, which indicates the direction of Mecca, has been chiseled into the wall, common for a space used for Islamic ceremony and practices.
Notice the keystone at the top center of the door opening, which appears to still be firmly positioned after 1800 or so years. I am curious as to what a restored door will look like, probably wooden.
As far as I know, I have read that the Ozan Mausoleum has recently been surveyed, and that there are plans to excavate and restore the structure. The Levent valley is a very popular local tourist destination, and I'm sure the monument would be visited.
I hope to return to Ozan in the future to see a fully restored structure! If you would like to see some restored mausoleums or tombs, please visit my posts on the Elif Mausoleum, the Hosanoglu Mausoleum, or the Hisar Mausoleum.
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