Photos by Jack A. Waldron
A short distance from the Sanctuary of Heraclea, and a stones throw from the Cendere Bridge (that spans the Nymphaios), a magnificent summer capital called Arsameia was constructed at the foot of Mount Nemrut during the reign of Arsames of Armenia. Arsames rose to power during the Syrian Wars, fought between the Seleucid and Egyptian rulers for control of the fragmented empire left by Alexander the Great.
Located in modern Adiyaman, Turkey, the ancient Commagene lands are as spectacular today as they must have been two and a quarter thousand years ago. By bicycle, I can highly recommend visits during spring and autumn, as the summers are extremely hot, yet dry. The sprouts of green seen in the photos above are highlighted by a setting sun covered by massive spring thunderstorms. 'Teshub', the ancient Hurrian Thunder God of these lands was among us in force.
During the previous day, while trying to travel over the mountain to Nemut, I was forced to turn back due to the deluge of rainfall and lightening, and take a 50 kilometer detour around the foot of the mountain. When one experiences such natural calamities, an appraisement and valuation is contemplated on why the ancients revered nature to the extent they did. And the following day, as you can see in the photo below, was picture perfect for further exploration of the ancients at Arsameia.
Beginning at an unassuming entrance to the site, a trail takes us wondering along the top of the magnificent valley below. The first sign of an ancient site appears when out on the cliff can be seen the Mithras Relief.
Mithras, a sun god, with the rays of the sun shooting out from his Phrygian capped head, as he takes some lineage from the ancient Anatolian god Attis, the lover of Cybele, the goddess who balances the wilds of nature, with cultivation of the civilized world.
With only half of the relief still remaining, and the finding of the so-called 'Royal Arm' (not shown), which belonged to the opposing figure, it is assumed that the monument was following the dexiosis representation that was common throughout the Commagene Kingdom: meaning, the Sun God would have been shown shaking hands with the ruler of Commagene, thus elevating the status of the ruler to being a god himself.
To whom the ''Royal Arm' belonged to is unknown, however, it is suspected to be that of either Antiochus I, or, his father Mithridates I.
In his left hand, the sun god Mithras is holding cleansing twigs known as barsom, which was used by priests during ritual ceremonies of the period.
A long inscription covers the back of the back of the stone monument, but unfortunately, I must invest some more time in order to get a translation.
Continuing along the high trail we come to a large cave with a carved arched roof (pictured below). It's been argued that this could have been the burial site of Mithridates I, which seems odd to me, since most (if not all) of the Commagene royalty are interred in tumuli, such as the Karakus Tumulus.
Others have suggested that the space was a temple to the god Mithras, in other words, the Mithreum. This seems more plausible.
Pictured below is a dexiosis relief of the sun god Mithras shaking hands with a fellow god, ie. someone from the royal Commagene family.
Interestingly, at the back of the large arched niche there is a stepped tunnel leading down a large wet room with a large basin.
I've not heard it suggested, but, this monument may have been used for purification rituals, and therefore certainly may have been a Mithreum, or some sore of sacred ritualistic site.
Certainly, with the ability to collect filtered drinkable water, whether from a spring in the ground, or from dripping from above, this cavern may have been a nymphaeum of substantial standing, as well as a simple source of water for the occupants of the greater site.
Pictured above, the camera is facing directly down at the ground at the bottom of the staircase (bottom half of photo, lighter). The round then comes to an edge with a steep drop of about one meter, where water collects.
Back outside and down the slope from the mouth of the cave, there is yet another dexiosis relief, which can be seen in the bottom left corner in the photo above.
This yet unidentified depiction has the remains of a long inscription (pictured below), which I will do more research on in order to get more background on this monument.
With the picturesque valley as a backdrop, and the ancient Nymphaios River steering its course as it has for millennia, this monument stands over a paradise not lost on anybody who views it.
Together, they are one. That is the basic message. The royal Commagene family is on par with gods.
In the two individual photos below, it may be a little easier to see each relief a bit better, as the sun was not cooperating on this day.
Pictured below, the shorter relief block showing the legs of the unidentified character, with the height of the site on full display as the valley floor drops below.
Continuing on up the trail toward the citadel, we arrive at yet another sacred sanctuary and/or nymphaeum (pictured below). The inscription on the large surface (center right) is referred to as the Great Cult Inscription. Written in Greek in five columns, it is the longest Greek inscription yet found in Turkey.
Here, Hercules greets Mithridates I above a large inscribed wall set over a tunnel that leads down into the depths of the mountain.
I've done a long search for a translation of this massive inscription, but has of yet been unsuccessful in locating one. I certainly will continue my efforts!
I am writing this in post on October 31, 2022, so you can see, that I am a good five years on from this visit to Arsameia. These posts take quite a bit of time, as I would like to give some background to the history involved.
Just to give some incite to my time in Turkey during the COVID-19 pandemic, I was able to cycle during 2020, and though I think it would have been possible in 2021, the Turkish Lira was beginning to crash, so, I packed my things and moved back to the U.S. for six months in order to prepare to buy a sailboat in Croatia, which I did in February/March 2022. I then sailed to Turkey, and now I am back, living in Izmir Marina on the boat, and planning for next summer. I am also trying to get caught up on my blog!!
As you can see in the photo below, there are steps leading part of the way down into this 158 meter deep abyss. I suspect that this space was used for ritual purposes, and perhaps as a nymphaeum for collecting water. A translation of the inscription should allow me to write more on the subject at a later date.
Above left of the tunnel is the high relief sculpture of Hercules with his club in his left hand, and shaking his right hand with the self-ordained fellow god Mithridates I.
Depicted in the Persian fashion, these reliefs were meant to convey a theme to the people of the realm. Further, the inscriptions informed the public of the ritual rites, and how festivals should be organized.
Though burial monuments of Mithridates I have been found at Arsameia on the Nymphaios, no burial locations are marked at the site.
W. HOEPFNER, ARSAMEIA AM NYMPHAIOS II. DAS HIEROTHESION DES KONIGS MITHRIDATES I. KALLINIKOS VON KOMMAGENE NACH DEN AUSGRABUGEN VON 1963 BIS 1967 (Istanbuler Forschungen XXXIII). Tubengen: Wasmuth, 1983. Pp. xii + 96, 40 pls., 43 text figs., 6 folding plans.
One of the unusual features of the Kommagene archaeological record is that it consists mainly of inscriptions and sculptures. Many of the smaller sanctuaries are known only from inscribed reliefs. Elsewhere the archaeologist normally finds more foundations and buildings than he/she has inscriptions and sculptures for. For Antiochos, buildings had to take second place; he was more interested in spending money to represent himself in words and images. They have the advantage of much more specific references to the subject portrayed. One of the interesting aspects of Arsameia-on-the-Nymphaios is that it is the first Kommagene sanctuary to reveal substantial remains of buildings (as well as sculptures and inscriptions.
Information on the founder of Arsameia on the Nymphaios comes from the inscriptions on the site. The founder was Arsames, who also founded Arsameia on the Euphrates, and Samosata.
It is suggested that he may have been the king of Armenia, who sided with Antiocus Hierax against his older brother King Seleucus II Callinicus.
Antiocus Hierax eventually lost the war, leaving Arsames to defend his kingdom, and the construction of Arsameia on the Nymphaios may have been built as a defensive fortress.
Continuing the the climb to the top, we come to a fairly well preserved staircase that takes us to the top of the citadel.
It is very difficult to picture what the ancient city looked like, as there are scant remains, and the site as a whole seems either overgrown and/or unexcavated. That said, it has been about 60 plus years since it was last excavated to any extent.
Though I couldn't find any part of a surrounding wall, the city is said to have had one. Also, there was a grand palace and reportedly magnificent public buildings.
As you can see in the photos above and below, we were able to find capitals and column bases at the site. Also, pictured at center of the photo above, a deep cistern protected by square blocks.
Antiochus I Theos, the son of Mithridates, is reported in the inscriptions to have improved on the buildings of the city, including the palace, adding altars and statues, and the spring sources that provided water to the inhabitants.
The processional way that has led us to the citadel was used during ancient times, and so is marked by the relief dedications placed along its route. The path leads to the citadel from the ancient Nymphaios River, pictured here deep in the valley below.
During the late Roman and Early Byzantine periods, the majority of the occupants of Arsameia moved to the site below known today as Yeni Kale, where a village still thrives (pictured below).
Built by Mamluk sultans following the decline of the Byzantines, the "New Castle" was a much more formidable defensive stronghold than that of Arsameia.
Arsameia saw for periods of occupation, beginning with the Commagenes through the Hellenistic period, followed by the Romans in 72 AD/CE during the reign of Emperor Vespasian, when the kingdom became part of the Roman Empire, and through the Byzantine Period.
Pictured here are some close-up views of the "New Castle" as seen from Arsameia.
Unfortunately, I did not have enough time to explore the "New Castle", but I do hope to do so in the future!
Pictured below, a view of the "New Castle" from the road below. The storm was coming on strong, and the lightening gods are not to be toyed with!
As you can see, the beautifully sunny afternoon turned dangerously dark in a matter of minutes.
*All photos and content property of Jack A. Waldron (photos may not be used without written permission)
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