Photos by Jack A. Waldron
The ancient city of Lyrbe Seleukeia is nestled comfortably in the forested hills approximately 15 kilometers from the sea coast to the south (36°52'23.3"N 31°28'31.4"E). The climb from the coast is gradual and meandering, and the site itself is secluded amongst the wind rustled pine forest. This is a beautiful cycling excursion when compared to the busy and tourist riddled coast, and the ancient city of Side (36°46'03.5"N 31°23'27.2"E).
The road to Lyrbe Seleukeia criss-crosses an ancient aqueduct that once delivered water to ancient Side from the foothills and mountains of the Taurus Mountain chain. Pictured above is what some refer to as 'Side Water Aqueduct 3' (36°50'03.8"N 31°27'39.1"E).
I was pretty careless in my duties during my early cycle tours, and I would often fail to find or discover hidden ancient gems. With regard to the Side aqueduct, I somehow either failed to get some photos, or, I have misplaced some, because I cannot find any photos of the 'Side Water Aqueduct 2' (36°50'40.4"N 31°28'00.7"E), or the 'Side Water Aqueduct 4' (36°47'15.7"N 31°24'54.7"E), which I rode past as I cycled into ancient Side.
One other section of this Roman aqueduct that I didn't photograph is located 5 kilometers northeast of ancient Lyrbe Seleukeia (36°47'15.7"N 31°24'54.7"E). I hope to pass through this area again in the future so that I can visit all of these sections of the Side aqueduct, and then I will update my blogposts!
As mentioned in the signboard below, the site was most likely founded with the name Lyrbe, and not Seleukeia. There were numerous ancient sites named after Seleucus I Nicator during the reign of the Seleucid Empire, one of which I have written about Seleucia ad Calycadnum.
Another candidate for ancient Seleucia within Pamphylia is located near the modern village of Sihlar, 20 kilometers west of Alanya (36°30'04.0"N 32°14'23.3"E), though I haven't been to the village, and I have not seen anything with regard to antiquities in my research. Ancient Lyrbe is one of the better preserved sites in Pamphylia.
Evidence of the true name of the city was found at the site, and is written in the language of Side, which indicates that the city was founded during the Hellenistic period sometime between 330-30 BCE.
I imagine that the site may have seen massive change with the arrival and dominance of the coastal city of Side by the Romans, as Lyrbe most likely became a summer retreat for the elite wishing to escape the heat and bustle of the port city.
Building remains from the Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine and Medieval periods can be found scattered over a large area of the site. With the accumulation of dead pine needles blanketing the site, there are sure to be numerous hidden antiquities beneath the visitors feet, including very dangerous growth covered cisterns.
For myself, as I imagine for the ancient Roman well-to-do, entering the city feels like arriving at a summer retreat, much like the Catskills presented to those arriving from New York City during the mountain holiday boom of the 50s and 60s.
The entrance to the site takes you directly to the central agora, which is a very well preserved Hellenistic complex, and reminds me of the spectacular Hellenistic agora buildings at two other sites; ancient Aigai, and Alinda.
The remoteness of the site has probably factored into its preservation, but there may be a few other factors, such as the massive blocks used build and strengthen the structures to resist earthquakes, and thus, the usefulness of these structures over many millennia.
Frankly, I've seen the restoration of more modern farm buildings that were in as bad or worse shape than these structures. In Turkey, new or renovated buildings are normally limited to the original building footprint/s that are on the site plans, and often such buildings are resurrected from nothing, and constructed anew according to the original plans.
These structures are approximately 2000+ years old, and still they stand. The main components missing from these stone hulls are the roofs, the inner wooden structure, and the doors.
In the photo below, we see the agora stoa with its line of shops, including the upper floors that would have provided storage space, travelers accommodations, and/or living quarters.
*All photos and content property of Jack A. Waldron (photos may not be used without written permission)
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