Photos by Jack A. Waldron
Pictured above, the cornice of an elaborately decorated building, probably from the Late Roman or Early Byzantine (Silifke Archeological Museum). When looking at ancient Korykos, or Corycus, we see Rome meets Byzantine, classical style versus Christian style, pagan versus Christian, and this applies to the great swath of antiquities from Elaiussa Sebaste to Korykos, because these two cities epitomize the transition from Western Rome to Eastern Rome, and Byzantine.
We'll start by taking a look at some of the more interesting structures along the ceremonial road between Elaiussa Sebaste and Korykos, which is a distance of about three kilometers. Not even one full kilometer south of the Roman Temple of Elaiussa Sebaste is this wonderful square block structure (36°28'27.0"N 34°10'07.2"E).
Though most of the building has collapsed, probably due to its rough construction, I think the arched windows and doors offer a romantic aesthetic. I say 'rough construction', because my guess is that this is an Early-Byzantine building, which lacks the refinement of earlier Roman buildings.
I am inclined to view this building as a Chapel, perhaps belonging to a coastal monastery, of which there are many in the greater area. The construction techniques remind me of the Byzantine construction I saw at ancient Barata (aka Binbir Kalesi), with square flat outer surfaces, and more conical inner extensions, that are then filled in with rough concreted rubble.
Beauty in the rough, is how I would describe these arched amenities, and there must have been a building standard or design in place when this building was constructed. Based on the surrounding religious structures we will explore around this area, I can conjecture a style containing a religious tone.
Now, in my argument for creating a walkway for tourists around the ancient site of Elaiussa Sebaste, I would now like to build on that plan by extending and creating a walkway and cycle path along the ancient road from the Elaiussa Sebaste all the way to Korykos.
There are so many antiquities along this path that are not easily accessible to the public, as one has to stop there car (or bicycle) along the main road shoulder, hop the railing or railings, as you might have to cross this very busy road, which then includes timing the racing cars as they flash by, and then go fight your way through the prickly brush to find these overgrown treasures. What a shame.
I know it is difficult to see the structures in the Google Maps photo above, but the Chapel is in the right of the photo (partly obscured by the rail), and the Tomb is in the left of the photo, just beyond the backend of the speeding truck!
Furthermore, the ridge above these treasures is being developed at a rapid pace with hotels, summer homes and other facilities. The land below this ridge must be protected, turned into an antiquities park with walkways and cycling paths, and preserved for future generations. As you will see, there is so much that will be lost if we do not protect it.
About fifty meters up from the Chapel are a couple of tombs, one rough, and one with spectacular construction and ornamentation (36°28'25.2"N 34°10'07.3"E). Pictured above, we see both side by side. The rough tomb is probably Late Byzantine, while the refined tomb is probably Mid-to-Late Roman.
The large stone blocks scattered on the hill leading up to the tomb indicate that this was not the only elaborately decorated tomb in this area, and that this is a larger necropolis along the main road into Elaiussa Sebaste.
What is more, some of the other tombs that once stood here may have been quarried for their stone. The square Corinthian capitals at the roof corners, and the entablature they are pretending to support stand out as wonderful crowning features of this tomb, which probably dates from Late Roman to Early Byzantine period.
This vaulted tomb was probably robbed during ancient times, and though there is no apparent door entrance, it's possible that the collapse you see in these photos blocked the door, and over time sediment has built on top of the rubble, thus obscuring the entrance even more.
The structure is in a pretty good state of preservation, though the whole area sadly needs urgent attention. There is no signage designating the site as a protected area, whether it is part of Elaiussa Sebaste, or if there are any plans to protect the antiquities.
Moving further along the road toward ancient Korykos, about six hundred meters from the area discussed above, we come to a massive basilica known as Saray Kale (36°28'14.2"N 34°09'47.9"E). In Turkish, Saray Kale means 'Palace Castle', though this is neither. I really find the naming of such antiquities in Turkey quite odd, because they often fall short of proper representation of what the actual antiquity is.
I suspect that the massive structure in the photo above is the Cathedral, which is the center piece of several other buildings, including the 'Tomb Church', the 'Transept Church', and the 'Monastery Church'.
The unique and important aspect of the 'Tomb Church', is that the center of the structure hold prominence, being built over the tomb of a special person, with the original tomb church being that of he 'Holy Sepulcher' in Jerusalem, where Jesus is said to have been buried, and resurrected.
'Transept' refers to a cross section or space that is set across the naos, or nave, which when combined with the length of the central room, forms a cross, which is a representation of the Christian crucifix.
None of these structures have signposts designating which building is which, and I have not seen any archeological surveys on the site, so until I get more information we will just have to use our intuition, question which could be which.
Without have more architectural knowledge on basilicas and churches, and without spending a lot more time analyzing the buildings at the site, I really cannot be sure what the structure pictured below is.
I see the corner section of a large a large building or entrance with the beginning of an arch. In the left of the photo I can see another section of wall, and in between these I can see a lot of fallen rubble, but I cannot say whether this is the 'Tomb Church', the Transept Church', or the 'Monastery Church'.
All of these structures are located roughly half way between ancient Elaiussa Sebaste and ancient Korykos, are dated between the 5C CE to the 6C CE, and are situated along the Ceremonial Road. 'Ceremonial Road' would indicate that this road may have pagan roots, in which the Roman Temple of Elaiussa Sebaste played a central role, as it may have once been the destination of a religious procession along this route.
If I am not mistaken, the stone block pictured here is not a sarcophagus, though I'm sure the inscription would give some clues as to what this is, so if you can read the inscription please write what it says in the comments section at the bottom of this post. Unfortunately, I did not get a photo of the top of the block, as it may be a statue pedestal, but again, I do not know.
Hidirli Oren Yeri in Turkish translates to, 'Hidirli Ruins Place' (36°29'03.5"N 34°08'40.6"E), but I have no doubt that this is a massive Basilica Complex. This complex is located about two and a half kilometers up the ridge from the Saray Kale off Cakir Hasan Road, but there are no paths leading to the site. The sign post pictured below simply points in the direction of the ruins, but the bush is so thick, it's inhibitive to say the least.
When I return to the area I will consider making the trek, but at the time of this photo I eager to continue down the road. So, I held my camera above the bush, and snapped the photos you see here. This whole ridge is covered with antiquities scattered amongst the bush, an area that is about five kilometers up from the coast, and about five kilometers wide. One could spend a lifetime exploring this area, and still something would remain hidden.
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